Anhydrous Potency Formulas & Resources

This BHA cleanser is built for daily pore care and texture refinement. Salicylic acid at 1% partners with a balanced anionic–zwitterionic–nonionic surfactant system that lifts oil and debris while keeping foam controlled and rinse-clean. Snow White Powder supports tone-evening, with panthenol and glycerin maintaining comfort during exfoliation. Hydroxypropyl guar adds body so the gel feels substantial without drag. PEG-based solubilizer keeps the fragrance phase clear and stable. The system is preserved with Liquid Germall Plus. Appearance is a clear to slightly opalescent gel that dilutes quickly under water.
Intended pH: 4.0 to 4.5. Do not push higher or you will blunt BHA performance for facial use.
Prep time: 45–60 minutes active work to dissolve phases and assemble the system, then overnight standing to let entrapped foam drop before bottling.
Difficulty rating: 3/5. Key watch-outs are complete salicylic dissolution and adding surfactant blends slowly to keep clarity.

BHA Clarifying Facial Cleanser

Method:

1. Combine phase A & Heat till snow white is fully dissolved and leaves a clear
solution.
2. Mix phase B together and keep stirring till salicylic acid is fully dissolved.
3. Add phase B to A mix slowly preferably in Drops to make sure the solution remains
clear.
4. Mix Phase C together and add to Phase A & B mix. Stir in low shear and make sure
to avoid too much foam in the preparation.
5. Combine Phase D and Add to the previous phases while under low shear. Add
phase E
6. Check/adjust pH to 4.0 to 4.5. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging.

A brightening face wash designed for gentle daily cleansing with visible tone-evening over time. The active phase combines Snow White Powder with mulberry extract, supported by urea and sodium lactate for hydration. Primary cleansing comes from SLES with amphoteric support from cocamidopropyl betaine and a mild lift from decyl glucoside to keep lather dense yet easy to rinse. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil provides fragrance clarity and can help solubilize small oil loads without clouding. Clear xanthan gum gives a silky gel flow. The finish on skin is clean, smooth, and non-squeaky.

Intended pH: 4.0 to 4.5 to support brightening while staying gentle for daily use.

Prep time: 45–60 minutes of hands-on mixing and dissolving, then overnight rest for microfoam to collapse.

Difficulty rating: 2/5. Straightforward as long as you hydrate the gum well and add surfactants under low shear.

Mulberry Brightening Facial Cleanser

Method

1. Combine phase A & Heat till actives are fully dissolved and leave a clear solution.
2. Mix phase B together and heat till the active is fully dissolved.
3. Add phase B to A mix slowly preferably in Drops to make sure the solution remains
clear.
4. Mix Phase C together and add to Phase A & B mix. Stir in low shear and make sure
to avoid too much foam in the preparation.
5. Combine Phase D and Add to the previous phases while under low shear. Add
phase E
6. Check/adjust pH to 4.0 to 4.5. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging.

Built as a family-friendly brightening body wash with a richer primary surfactant load for full-body cleansing. SLES does the heavy lifting here, with amphoteric support from cocamidopropyl betaine and added decyl glucoside to round the foam profile. Hydration support comes from glycerin, urea, and sodium lactate so the skin never feels tight. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil ensures fragrance and any colorant are clear and stable. A touch of color gives the “apple” signal without staining linens. Texture is a medium-viscosity gel that pours cleanly and lathers fast.

Intended pH: 4.0 to 4.5 which suits body skin and preserves formula brightness and clarity.

Prep time: 45–60 minutes active time to dissolve actives and stage surfactants, plus overnight degassing.

Difficulty rating: 2/5. Higher surfactant percentage needs low shear and patient additions to avoid permanent bubbles.

Apple Extract Body Cleanser

Preparation.

Combine phase A & Heat till actives are fully dissolved and leave a clear solution.
2. Mix phase B together and heat till the active is fully dissolved.
3. Add phase B to A mix slowly preferably in Drops to make sure the solution remains
clear.
4. Mix Phase C together and add to Phase A & B mix. Stir in low shear and make sure
to avoid too much foam in the preparation.
5. Combine Phase D and Add to the previous phases while under low shear. Add
phase E
6. Check/adjust pH to 4.0 to 4.5. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging.

A refreshing gel cleanser that pairs gentle surfactants with polymer structuring for a bouncy, cushiony glide. The cleansing system uses sodium lauroyl sarcosinate with disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and cocamidopropyl betaine. GelSus and Crothix Liquid supply rheology control for an elegant, non-runny flow. Actives include SAP for antioxidant support, licorice for calm clarity, and panthenol for conditioning. Tea tree and lemon essential oils add a brisk, clean scent when correctly solubilized. The result is a clear gel that foams quickly, rinses without residue, and leaves the face awake and balanced.

Intended pH: 6.2 to 6.8, which protects surfactant performance and EO stability on facial skin.

Prep time: 60–75 minutes including polymer hydration time, then overnight to settle microfoam.

Difficulty rating: 3/5. Timing of polymer hydration and careful pH control are the main skills.

Refreshing Facial Cleanser

Preparation

1. Combine phase A & heat till actives are fully dissolved and leave a clear solution.
2. Mix phase B together and heat till the active is fully dissolved.
3. Add phase B to A mix slowly preferably in Drops to make sure the solution remains
clear.
4. Mix Phase C together and add to Phase A & B mix. Stir in low shear and make sure
to avoid too much foam in the preparation.
5. Combine Phase D and Add to the previous phases while under low shear. Add
phase E
6. Check/adjust pH to 4.0 to 4.5. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging.

A deep-cleansing liquid inspired by traditional black soap but optimized for modern stability and conditioning. Primary cleansing is from a targeted “Samla Yen” surfactant with amphoteric and nonionic support for foam richness. Conditioning comes from HoneyQuat and panthenol, while glycerin improves glide and post-rinse feel. Vitamin E adds antioxidant support. Preservation uses Euxyl PE 9010, an effective blend for surfactant systems. Expect a characterful color with a smooth gel body that pours easily.

Intended pH: 8.2 to 8.5, consistent with the traditional black-soap profile and required for this system’s stability.

Prep time: 60 minutes hands-on, then overnight for thickener hydration and bubble release.

Difficulty rating: 3/5. Managing clarity and viscosity while working at alkaline pH requires attention.

Liquid African Black Soap Body Cleanser

Preparation

1. Combine phase A & Heat till actives are fully dissolved. Strain it to get rid of soap
Particles.
2. Combine phase B and mix till the solution is clear. Add to phase A and stir
3. Mix phase C together and add to A&B mix slowly preferably in Drops.
4. Add Phase D to the previous mix. Stir in low shear and make sure to avoid too much
foam in the preparation.
5. Combine Phase E and Add to the previous phases while under low shear.
6. Add Phase F to the previous phases and mix under low shear for about 20mins to
fully hydrate.
7. Check/adjust pH to 8.2 to 8.5. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging.

A concentrated base paste made from shredded soaps and traditional black soap, optimized for later customization. The objective is a smooth, homogenous mass with an elastic, spreadable texture that can be diluted into liquid cleansers or kept dense for paste formats. Shea butter and related emollients temper the cleanse and improve glide, while a cationic conditioning polymer contributes slip to offset the natural alkalinity. The paste holds fragrance well after a resting period and serves as a reliable foundation for custom body washes, scrubs, or hand soaps. Students should focus on uniform melting, low aeration, and consistent water activity across batches. Expect an earthy color and a dense feel that loosens with water.

Intended pH: Alkaline (typical of potassium-rich black soap)

Prep time: 45–60 min to homogenize, 48 h rest before use

Difficulty: 2/5

African Black Soap Concentrate

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat till ingredients are melted. Stick Blend to achieve a
smooth paste.
2. Mix phase B together in a mixer and mix under low speed.
3. Add phase A to B while mixing under low shear and speed.
4. After the mix is homogenous, leave for 48 hours before use.

This customization framework starts from the Black Soap Base and layers in beldi soap, botanicals, and gentle abrasives to create a scrub-soap hybrid. Rice powder and sugar provide a controlled polish, while mulberry and licorice contribute tone-evening benefits in a rinse‑off context. The texture target is stretchy and cushiony so it spreads easily over body areas before breaking with water into a cleansing lather. Color and scent can be tuned to the brand story. Students should monitor viscosity as solids are added and aim for even dispersion without overworking air into the paste. The result cleans deeply but respects the barrier more than raw soap would.

Intended pH: Alkaline (inherits the base profile)

Prep time: 30–45 min blending, 48 h covered rest

Difficulty: 2/5

Customized African Black Soap Blend

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Add Phase A into the mixer and set to low speed.
2. Add Phase B to A by introducing the ingredients individually.
3. Add Aqua slowly until you get a stretchy Consistency.
4. After the mix is homogenous, Leave for 48 hours before use. Package in Dark
Containers.

A light cream‑gel exfoliant that suspends fine abrasives in an emulsified, polymer‑structured base. The oil phase and modern polymer (e.g., Sepigel 305) create a whippable texture with a low‑drag glide so the scrub feels controlled, not scratchy. Urea and magnesium sulfate improve hydration and performance, while MSM supports clarity claims. Dual‑grit particles such as jojoba esters and finely milled walnut shell deliver steady polishing across large areas. The system is preserved for safe jar use and rinses cleanly without a lingering film. Students should pay attention to shear staging: build structure first, add abrasives gently at the end, and avoid over‑mixing which collapses air and reduces cushion.

Intended pH: 5.0 – 5.5

Prep time: ~60 min including cool‑down; package next day

Difficulty: 3/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat till the actives are fully melted. Blend in High/ Med Shear.
2. Mix phase B together and add to Phase A under high Shear.
3. Allow the previous Mix cool to < 40°C.
4. Mix Phase C together and add to Phase A & B mix under low shear.
5. Combine Phase D and add to the previous phases while mixing under low shear.
6. Add Phase E to previous phases and whip / use a spatula to mix. Do not stick
Blend.
7. Check/adjust pH to 5.0 to 5.5 Package the next day.

A cold‑process bar designed for steady, terrain‑like exfoliation. The fatty‑acid profile balances lauric and myristic acids for cleansing with oleic and stearic contributions for conditioning and bar integrity. Mineral mud and fine walnut shell add exfoliation and a grounded aesthetic. Sugar can be used to boost lather. After a full cure, the bar achieves better longevity, milder feel, and a creamier foam. Students should focus on safe lye handling, temperature management, and timing at trace, especially when powders and abrasives are present. Expect a firm bar with a stable, creamy lather suited to elbows, knees, and active lifestyles.

Intended pH: Typical cured cold‑process soap alkalinity

Prep time: 60–90 min make + mold; 24 h before cut; 4–6 weeks cure

Difficulty: 4/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat to melt solids. Stick Blend to achieve a homogenous oil
phase.
2. Weigh out Phase B and If frozen water was used, Subtract at least 20g of room
temperature water to dissolve citric acid, sugar and color.
3. Add Lye to Frozen Liquid and stir till it is dissolved and the solution is clear.
4. Mix the Citric acid solution into Phase A and stick blend. Add Lye Solution and Stir
with a Spatula. Stick Blend Gradually until it reaches trace.
5. Add Phase C at trace and mix with a spatula. Pour into Mold and leave to set for 24
hours.
6. Cut after 24 hours and allow them Cure for 4 to 6 weeks.

A cold‑process bar that focuses on plush, creamy lather and a soft post‑wash feel. The oil blend balances cleansing coconut with conditioning olive and a generous shea contribution for cushion. Rose clay lends a delicate color and slip, and sugar supports lather richness. Fragrance is added at light trace for best retention and minimal acceleration. With a full cure, the bar hardens well and develops a refined, creamy bloom in the foam. Students should learn to manage fragrance behavior, avoid over‑mixing clays, and pour at the right viscosity to achieve smooth tops without air pockets.

Intended pH: Typical cured cold‑process soap alkalinity

Prep time: 60–90 min make + mold; 24 h before cut; 4–6 weeks cure

Difficulty: 3/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat to melt solids. Stick Blend to achieve a homogenous oil
phase. Add the Clay at this point.
2. Weigh out Phase B and If frozen water was used, Subtract at least 20g of room
temperature water to dissolve citric acid, sugar and color.
3. Add Lye to Frozen Liquid and stir till it is dissolved and the solution is clear.
4. Mix the Citric acid solution into Phase A and stick blend. Add Lye Solution and Stir
with a Spatula. Stick Blend Gradually until it reaches trace.
5. Add fragrance at trace and mix with a spatula. Pour into Mold and leave to set for
24 hours.
6. Cut after 24 hours and allow them Cure for 4 to 6 weeks.

A playful cold‑process bar that uses frozen juice as the liquid phase to support a fruit‑forward concept. The balanced oil blend targets creamy lather with good hardness after cure, combining coconut, olive, shea, cocoa, grapeseed, and castor oils. Citric acid solution helps with soap‑scum control in hard water. Kaolin or rose clay adds body and gentle slip, while carrot powder and the juice base reinforce theme and hue. The cured bar is cheerful and aromatic with a comfortable, creamy wash. Students must manage temperature, color dispersion, and fragrance timing to avoid ricing or acceleration.

Intended pH: Typical cured cold‑process soap alkalinity

Prep time: 60–90 min including alternate liquid prep; 24 h before cut; 4–6 weeks cure

Difficulty: 4/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat to melt solids. Stick Blend to achieve a homogenous oil
phase. Add the clay at this point.
2. Weigh out Phase B and If frozen water was used, Subtract at least 20g of room
temperature water to dissolve citric acid, sugar, and color.
3. Add lye to frozen liquid and stir till it is dissolved and the solution is clear.
4. Mix the citric acid solution into Phase A and stick blend. Add Lye Solution and Stir
with a spatula. Stick-blend gradually until it reaches trace.
5. Add fragrance at trace and mix with a spatula. Pour into the mold and leave to set for
24 hours.
6. Cut after 24 hours and allow them to cure for 4 to 6 weeks.

A whipped cleansing scrub that merges a foaming base with chemical and physical exfoliation. The surfactant blend (e.g., AOS 40, cocamidopropyl betaine, and coco glucoside) creates dense foam that carries abrasives evenly over wet skin. Lactic acid provides a gentle chemical polish to complement the physical scrub, while licorice extract calms. A light gum system helps prevent phase separation and stabilizes the whipped texture. The result scoops like marshmallow, spreads with cushion, then breaks under water into a creamy foam that rinses clean without oily film. Students should control the whip to hold air without collapse and monitor acid timing to hit the target pH.

Intended pH: 4.0 – 4.8 (final check ~4.2)

Prep time: 45 min to build and whip; package next day

Difficulty: 3/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat till actives are fully dissolved. Put in freezer to solidify.
2. Prepare Whisk and Whip Phase A till it’s soft.
3. Mix Phase B together and add to Phase A. Use a spatula to mix.
4. Adjust pH to 4.0 to 4.8 and mix. .
5. Combine Phase C and add to the previous phases while under low shear.
6. Check/adjust pH to 4.2 if need be. Package the next day. 

A versatile whipped soap base that can be used alone or as the backbone for whipped scrubs. Mild solid surfactants (such as SCI) combined with amphoterics create creamy, cushiony lather that feels plush on the skin. High glycerin improves glide and moisture feel, while stearic acid and salt tune body and stability. Once cooled and aerated, the base whips to stable, pipeable peaks that accept sugar, salt, oils, color, and fragrance with minimal deflation. The finished texture is indulgent yet rinseable, suited for bath treats and shower jars. Students should practice consistent whipping technique and observe how electrolytes and oils influence firmness and foam.

Intended pH: Use the base’s native range (not separately specified)

Prep time: 45–60 min to make base and chill; 10–15 min to whip

Difficulty: 2/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A & heat till actives are fully dissolved. Put in freezer to solidify.
2. Prepare Whisk and Whip Phase A till it’s soft.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A. Use a spatula to mix.
4. Scoop Out the required size for your scrubs

A spa‑strength mineral polish built on the Foaming Bath Whip base. A chosen salt grade provides the mechanical exfoliation, while orange peel powder and a compatible herbal extract contribute sensory lift. A measured dose of lactic acid adds a gentle chemical smooth to complement the physical scrub. The texture spreads like a mousse and then transforms with water into a rich cleansing foam, leaving skin feeling polished without a greasy film. Students should select granule size to match target body area and fold the salt gently to preserve aeration of the base. Proper preservation and jar hygiene are essential.

Intended pH: Follows Bath Whip base (not separately specified)

Prep time: 15–20 min folding actives and salt once base is ready

Difficulty: 2/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A Whip All ingredients together.

An everyday facial liquid cleanser built around very mild surfactants for quick‑rinse foam that respects the skin barrier. A small amount of nonionic surfactant and polysorbate 80 supports clear fragrance or treatment oils without haze. Panthenol conditions, while willow bark and green tea extracts offer gentle clarity and antioxidant tone. The preservative system is chosen for robust broad‑spectrum coverage in surfactant matrices. Texture is a light, pump‑friendly liquid that rinses with minimal residue. Students should note how pH in the mid‑5s aligns with facial comfort and how low‑ASM systems can still deliver a satisfying foam profile when the blend is balanced.

Intended pH: 5.5 – 6.0

Prep time: 30–45 min active, overnight bubble release

Difficulty: 2/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A Stir continuously till Powder is dissolved.
2. Mix phase B together and add to phase A.
3. Mix Phase B together and Add to the previous Mix.
4. Stir in low shear and make sure to avoid too much foam in the preparation.
5. Combine Phase C and Add to the previous phases while under low shear. Add
phase D
6. Check/adjust pH to 5.5 to 6.0. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging in foam dispensing bottles.

A pH‑balanced family shower gel that cleans effectively while keeping rinse fast and skin feel soft. Primary cleansing from a sarcosinate is paired with disodium laureth sulfosuccinate and betaine to create a creamy, quick‑rinsing lather. Conditioning is enhanced with polyquaternium‑7, urea, panthenol, and hydrolyzed silk peptides, so the skin feels smooth after toweling. Glycerin and a touch of clear xanthan tune viscosity without heaviness. The finished gel is clear, stable, and fragrance‑ready with a family‑friendly profile. Students should connect the mid‑6 pH range with surfactant performance and the silky feel from quats in rinse‑off systems.

Intended pH: 6.2 – 6.8

Prep time: 45–60 min including viscosity build; overnight clearing

Difficulty: 2/5

Preparation

• Weigh out all ingredients.
• Clean all equipment with I.P.A. and dry with clean tissue paper.

Procedure

1. Combine phase A under low shear.
2. Mix phase B together & Add to phase A. Under low shear, mix at 800rpm.
3. Combine ingredients in phase C and Add to the previous phase mix. Add phase D
to the previous mix.
4. Check/adjust pH to 6.2 to 6.8. Allow foam to settle overnight before packaging.