Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is a high-performance vitamin C derivative designed for brightening and tone support with improved stability.
It helps reduce the look of dullness and uneven tone, supports a smoother-looking complexion, and fits well in modern leave-on serums and creams.
Compared to pure L-ascorbic acid, it is typically easier to formulate with and has a lower risk of fast oxidation and colour change, especially when you use good packaging and a smart antioxidant system.
FEATURES
- Brightening support – helps improve the look of dullness and uneven tone.
- More stable vitamin C – lower oxidation risk than L-ascorbic acid.
- Flexible formats – works in serums, gels, and emulsions.
- Elegant feel – active performance without the high-acid sting profile of classic vitamin C systems.
BEST FOR
- Brightening serums
- Even-tone treatments
- Gel serums
- Moisturisers
- Dark spot blends
- Antioxidant boosters
FORMULATION GUIDELINES
| INCI | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid |
|---|---|
| Type | Vitamin C derivative (brightening + antioxidant) |
| Solubility | Water soluble / water dispersible (solubility depends on system and temperature) |
| Use Rate | 0.5–5.0% typical. 1–3% is common for daily brightening serums. 3–5% for stronger tone-support concepts. |
| pH Compatibility | We recommend finished product pH 4.0–6.0 for good performance and stability balance. |
| Temperature Tolerance | We recommend dissolving with gentle warming if needed, then adding below 45°C and avoiding prolonged heat holding. |
| Pro Tip | Pre-dissolve ethyl ascorbic acid completely in the water phase before you thicken or emulsify, then protect the system with a chelator (example: disodium EDTA) and good packaging. Pairing with complementary brighteners (example: alpha arbutin, tranexamic acid, licorice derivatives) can improve the overall even-tone result. Always confirm colour stability, because vitamin C systems can drift if exposed to light, air, or metal contamination. |
| Appearance | White to off-white powder |
| Stability Notes | More stable than L-ascorbic acid, but still sensitive to light, air, and metal ions. Use protective packaging and run stability testing. |
| Storage | Keep sealed, cool and dry, away from heat and direct sunlight. |
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