Allantoin
Allantoin is a cosmetic-grade skin protectant and soothing active for professional formulation.
Specs: Solubility = Slightly water soluble (improves with heat). pH = 4.0–8.0. Add = Dissolve in water phase ~70–80°C or pre-slurry; avoid overheating.
Allantoin is a well loved cosmetic active used to support skin comfort and reduce the feel of irritation.
It helps improve smoothness and is especially useful in formulas designed for sensitive skin, post breakout care, retinoid support routines, and everyday hydration products.
It performs best when dissolved properly and added with good temperature control to avoid recrystallisation.
FEATURES
- Soothing support – helps reduce the feel of irritation and supports skin comfort.
- Smoother feel – improves slip and helps skin feel softer with continued use.
- Barrier friendly – fits well into sensitive skin, barrier repair, and treatment support concepts.
- Wide compatibility – works in emulsions, gels, and many gentle rinse off systems.
BEST FOR
- Soothing moisturisers
- Barrier repair creams
- Hydrating serums
- Gentle cleansers
- Post breakout care formulas
FORMULATION GUIDELINES
| INCI | Allantoin |
|---|---|
| Chemical Class | Skin protectant active |
| Solubility | Sparingly soluble in water. Solubility increases with heat. |
| Use Rate | 0.1–0.5% for most leave on formulas. Up to 1% if your system can hold it without crystallising. |
| pH Stability | Works well across typical cosmetic pH ranges. We recommend finished product pH 4.5–7.0. |
| Temperature Tolerance | We recommend dissolving in the water phase at 60–80°C until fully clear, then cooling with steady mixing to reduce recrystallisation. |
| Pro Tip | If crystals appear after 24–72 hours, reduce the dose, increase dissolve time/temperature, and slow your cool down. In gels, fully hydrate your polymer before final pH adjustment. |
| Appearance | White, odourless crystalline powder |
| Stability Notes | Main risk is recrystallisation. Proper dissolve and controlled cooling prevent gritty texture and fallout. |
| Storage | Keep sealed, cool and dry. Protect from moisture and direct heat. |
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