Azelaic Acid
Azelaic Acid is a naturally occurring chemical belonging to the class of dicarboxylic acids. In skin care, it is most commonly used to treat acne.
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring chemical of the dicarboxylic acid family. Acne treatment is its most popular application in skin care. However, it also inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, mostly indirectly reducing melanin synthesis. Additionally, it seems to slow down the pace of DNA synthesis in aberrant melanocytes, which prevents them from proliferating. Melasma, lentigo maligna, and other hyperpigmentation issues have all been treated with it. Topical azelaic does not depigment naturally pigmented skin, freckles, age spots (solar lentigines), or nevi, or does so very minimally. It is frequently used in medications and cosmetics.
Azelaic Acid Benefits:
- Anti-acne – against mild to moderate acne.
- Skin lightening
- Anti-bacterial
- Effective agent
- Broad pH stability
- Reduced hyperpigmentation
APPLICATION: Skincare preparations that deal with acne as well as skin lightening
INCI: Azelaic acid
Solubility: Heated Water (About 50°C) (see Technical advice for more information)
Assay: 99.0%
Use rate: 1.0 to 10.0% (up to 20%)
pH Stability: 3.5 – 6.0
Storage: Store in a cool, dark, and dry place
TECHNICAL ADVICE
Emulsions
The heated water phase of emulsions is the optimal place to add azelaic acid because, while it dissolves readily at higher temperatures, it will crystallize at normal temperatures. Even after this, a suitable polymer with suspending power should be employed because, in larger concentrations, azelaic acid primarily serves as a dispersion agent. With the proper solvent or alcohol, smaller quantities can continue to be soluble. Additionally, this explains why its possible irritant profile exists. Recrystallization does not always indicate that an agent stops working, although even at concentrations of 15-20%, azelaic has a low bioavailability as a scattered substance.
Solubilization and Stability in Gels
Only a few solvents completely dissolved azelaic acid. Specifically, (poly)propylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol. And Butoxydiglycol, respectively. At high concentrations, these solvents allow the creation of transparent azelaic acid gels. The amount of azelaic acid that can be solubilized is still limited. It can also be stabilized by using other medications. To establish the proper balance, the formulating chemist will need to undertake tests.
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